Wishbone Reef 2011/2020

We are about to cast off for our 2020 cruise north to Wishbone reef 🙂

I recall watching two Nudibranchs (Nembrotha Kukaryana) cavorting in 5m of water. Wicked lovers one day and still at it the next. Nudibranchs being hermaphrodites are both male and female. Note the blue genitalia on their front right. The image shows them manoeuvring into position to both pump sperm into each other with their horn and receive sperm thru their hole. Double the fun I guess 🙂 We’ve been dropping into Wishbone reef on and off over the past 10 years, I always loved being there.2

Wishbone Reef is one of my favourite locations:

I always feel the exhilaration of being in a remote location, Wishbone Reef is almost 600km north of Cairns, and I have never seen another boat here. It’s not all about escaping the hustle and bustle, the therapeutic benefits of being alone surrounded by pristine nature can never be underestimated. Ok, I admit nirvana can be somewhat diminished thru breakdowns, accidents, or a winging crew. Luckily, my first mate is brilliant and usually solid preparation mixed with a little luck has seen us thru….2020 was no different!

• Wishbone Reef is comfortable during brisk trade winds. We anchor  behind a two km shallow headland of sand and coral heads. 

* The marine life here is both healthy and  abundant. It’s fed by currents that flow from deep water on one side of the peninsula through to the other.

* Wall diving along the outside is ok as the coral falls away over 1000m to the ocean floor. Although we did need to be careful as the currents below the surface sometimes ran a different  direction, plus we struck a nasty down current on one occasion. 

Diving locations

The most exciting area for us is a set of four reefs that extend north from the passage. Here, it is possible to drop the pick in the sand in 25 – 30m and fall back to the edge of the coral. Perfect for stepping out right next to rich coral life, especially suited to macro photography. Lots of nudibranchs, worms, critters, echidnas and plenty of beautiful sponges. We prefer diving near the change of tide. However, planning can be difficult as the currents don’t bear much of a relationship to the tide tables.

This whole peninsular has many interesting dive locations. Apart from the critters, there are plenty of whaler sharks, and coral trout so big and bold they are a little scary. A pod of athletic spinner dolphins are always a thrill. However, they tend to be camera-shy, so hopefully, this year they will be more daring.

A harlequin ghost pipefish, just 15-20mm long , we think it was just released from its dad who mind the young until they are old enough to swim of by themselves. Adults grow to 12cm

Getting there and back

As I write this in mid 2020, I am relaxing up the Endeavour River at Cooktown. Soon we will be enjoying our time around Lizard Island before stopovers at the Howick and Flinders Islands. Finally, exploring the outer reef section from Tydeman Cay to Wreck Bay can be either a challenge in lousy weather or tremendous in light to moderate conditions. Either way by the time we reach Wishbone, we will be in full remote cruising and diving mode.
Travelling along the coastal inward channel from Flinders Islands to Lochard River is another option which we have usually chosen on our return trips south. We enjoy Lochard River, and this route features fascinating little islands and impressive sandbanks full of birdlife that extend for miles at low tide. Unique coastal rivers and creeks are there to be explored and fished by the hardy taking care to avoid crocodilians.2

For my detailed info on the areas on the way up and back, check our web blogs which I have listed travelling south from Cairns to Wishbone reef.

Cooktown

Lizard Island

Howick islands East from Howick Islands

Pipon reef area

Flnders islands

Tydeman reef and cays More info from Cape melville to Lockhart River

Lockhart River

Wishbone Reef safety, support & running for cover

Despite the best preparedness major mishaps can occur—a bad accident or sickness, a massive storm bearing down or a critical part required for our vessel? The good news is this is not the middle of the Coral Sea. We’re a mere 125 km from the aboriginal settlement of Lockhart River. Hospital, airport, flying doctor visits, Internet, a fuel barge calling Wednesdays, and very secure anchorages. Lockhart River community, not a bad backup.

Wishbone Reef fishing

Sorry, there isn’t any. The peninsular is a green zone (that’s why the coral trout are huge). But it’s only a few miles, and you can be trolling in the ocean or back in a reef fishing area. There is not much competition from other anglers up there.

Birds and Turtles.

We’ve never been set upon by hordes of marine birds at Wishbone, just a few here and there. One particular tern landed on our boat clearly with the idea that this was a right resting place to die. We made Feathers feel welcome and comfortable. On the third day he passed away, we didn’t have the heart to just throw him in the water. So we put it in a cardboard box, said a few words and gave it a most notable burial and sea. We might be a little strange 🙂
For significant interaction with birds and turtles, the sand cays to the south are fantastic. Sandbank Eight on the way up is the second largest breeding ground for green Turtles. It can be quite spectacular, but care must be taken not disturb nesting turtles or marine birds in the spring. Also, note Tiger sharks especially frequent Sandbank Eight during the spring turtle breeding season.

Why is my anchor stuck

On one occasion we decided on an early morning 30km trip south to see whether it was possible to dive on the Northern small Detached Reef. First, we enjoyed an afternoon dive close to a barrier exit then just hung next to the reef ready for a daybreak getaway. When the wind picked up during the night, I decided that being 10m in front of waves breaking over coral was not a good idea. We moved a kilometre to what appeared to be a 35m deep flat sand bottom. But my depth sounder lied to me. At daybreak, despite my award-winning manipulating tricks the anchor refused to budge. My dive to untangle revealed a remarkable scene similar to a desert with 2-5m termite mounds scatted as far as the eye could see. Extraordinary, never seen coral heads in deep water like this before or after.

Mystery

For years this huge ships cardinal marker was dragging itself around the reef here. Where it had brocken away from we were never able to ascertain. Eventually it disappeared. Our complaints to the AMSA that it was not only damaging the coral but would eventually pose a hazrd to boats might have had something to do with it.

Traveling further north

Further north is the atolls of Great detached and Ashmore reefs plus plenty of excellent outer reefs and a multitude of little sand cays in between. There is another fun option of following the old clipper ship passage from the Pacific through the reef entrance just north of Great Detached reef NW to the tip of Cape York, buts that’s another story 🙂

Updating after this years (2020) trip

Below is a few additional images info from 2020 diving in 2020:

Its now 2021 and looking back it was an uneventful cruise. The coral was in good condition although we found far less slugs ( nudinbranches and flat worms ) than privious trips. We did have to some some fun time exploring on the way up and to the west around Forbes islands.

Cheers Captain Rob, first mate Syl & bosun Pug.